donderdag 18 juli 2013

Band shoot

"The making of..."
About a week ago a friend of mine asked me if I wanted to do a photo shoot for a metal band together with him. Of course I thought this was a very cool idea, so yesterday evening I packed my gear and we went to shoot some cool images of "Born Of Flames".
 
(The photo's shown in this blog are not (yet) edited)

First we shot some photo's of the complete band outdoors. I used a remote triggered Canon Speedlight 430 EXII with a shoot-through umbrella for this. It was still pretty bright outside but I wanted to make some darker looking photo's. To achieve this I used the manual mode and dialed in a low ISO value and a high aperture value. The shutter speed was 1/200 as this is the speedlights synch speed.
 
f/13 t:1/200 iso:400 23mm

f/13 t:1/200 iso:400 21mm

f/13 t:1/200 iso:400 18mm

f/13 t:1/200 iso:400 27mm, used reflector on front man to create fill light
After the outdoor session we shot some "action-shots" inside. Here we used some studio flashes with a snoot  (drummer) and gold-reflection umbrella's which were positioned at a low angle. It was hard to focus these images as the light was very low. The auto-focus system didn't know what to do with it, so I had to use manual focus. But also for the human eye it was hard to see if the image was sharp.
 
f/5 t:1/200 iso:800 46mm

f/4.5 t:1/200 iso:400 42mm

f/5 t:1/200 iso:400 59mm

f/4 t:1/200 iso:800 25mm

f/4 t:1/200 iso:200 33mm
It was pretty cool to do this shoot. It's not every day that you get a band-shoot request for a grunting metal band. For safety, I put some wet tisues in my ears during the action-shots :-)

zondag 14 juli 2013

Light painting

The word "photography" means "light-drawing". In this blog we'll take a look at the literal translation of our favourite word: We are going to draw stuff with light!

To be able to do this, it needs to be dark. The darker the better. Also, we need to put the camera in manual mode. Next, dial in a slow shutter speed, like 15 or 20 seconds. If it's REALY dark you can even try 'bulb' mode, which means that the shutter will be open as long as you hold down the shutter release button (to avoid camera shake, better use a cheap cable release with which you you can 'lock' the release button).

Choose an ISO value which is not too high to avoid noise. The shutter will be open for a long time anyway so don't worry too much about not enough light falling into the camera.

Now choose an aperture that fits your needs. With a little bit of experimentation you'll get the correct setting. If the photo is too dark, just choose a lower f value to open the aperture some more. Too bright? Choose a higher f value to close the aperture.

You'll also need a light source of some kind. A flashlight or the led light on your phone will do perfectly fine. A model is not necessary, but it makes the photo's much more fun! (Don't forget to tell your model to stay perfectly still for as long as the shutter is open :-) ) And now for some examples:

f/22 t:20sec iso:1600
f/22 t:20sec iso:1600
At the location of these poto's there was a lamp post pretty near by. Because of this, the guy with the light (that would be me) is visible as a ghost-like figure. This would not have been the case if the surrounding lights were less bright, and wearing darker clothes would help as well. In a more ideal (darker) situation we would have opened the shutter, made the light painting, and then use a seperate flash on the model to make him/her visible in the photo. But since this was not the case, we thought of another solution. First we made the desired photo, with me as the light ghost (especially visible at the 'k' position of 'Frank').
f/7.1 t:20 sec iso:200
After this, we made another photo with the same camera settings but without the people in it.
f/7.1 t:20 sec iso:200
Then, in Photoshop (any advanced photo editor will do) these two photo's were combined so that the ghost appearance was removed.
Combined image (also cropped)

The light paintings above were made with a little led light that was available on my phone. The downside of using a led/flashlight is that the person holding that light needs to be in the image. This might cause some ghosting if there is too much surrounding light. To avoid problems like that, you could also use a laser, as can be seen in the following examples:
f/3.5 t:10sec iso:320
f/3.5 t:10sec iso:125
Making light paintings is a lot of fun! Try different light sources like leds, lasers and flashlights. You could even attach them to a rope and swing them arround to create cool effects. I allready bought some glowsticks for the next session :-)

Here are some more, very cool, examples from a Finnish photographer called Janne Parviainen: http://9bytz.com/light-paintings-made-by-a-single-led/






zaterdag 13 juli 2013

The "StarBurst" effect

My God, It's full of stars! (Dave Bowman: 2001, A Space Odyssey)

While a large aperture gives you a small depth of field, a small aperture gives you a large depth of field, which means that more content in your photo is in focus. But there is also another effect that can be made to use when using a small aperture.

If you shoot a photo (about f16 and above), especially at night, with a light source in it, this light source will show up in the image as a star shaped light. It will also work with the sun during the day. However, the bigger the difference between the surrounding light and the light source in the photo (that should be brighter of course) , the better the effect. So if you want to use the sun for this, use it during a nice sunset.

Aperture: f29

Aperture: f22

Aperture: f22